The Secret Seaside: Why the Best British Beach Towns Are Up North
Forget Brighton. The real magic of the British coast is happening in the North—if you know where to look. While Blackpool and Scarborough serve up arcades and crowds, a short detour down winding B-roads leads to something far better: wild beaches, big skies, and seafood that won't break the bank.
Seahouses, Northumberland, is a working fishing village first, tourist spot second. Watch boats bob in the harbor, then tuck into haddock and chips at Lewis’ Seafood Restaurant. Don't miss Swallow Fish, a smokehouse that's been curing kippers since 1843—some say this is where they were invented.
Over in Lancashire, Morecambe has staged a quiet revival. Its sweeping bay offers views of the Lakeland Fells, especially stunning at sunset. The promenade is perfect for a stroll, with independent spots like The Bow Window serving pan-fried kippers. The Stone Jetty, once a railway terminal, is now a sculpture-lined walkway.
St. Bees, Cumbria, feels gloriously off-grid. Red sandstone cliffs frame an often-empty beach, and the clifftop RSPB reserve is the only English nesting site for black guillemots. Afterward, warm up at the Manor Inn with a pint of Wainwrights ale and beef brisket.
Saltburn-by-the-Sea, Teesside, is a Victorian gem with a wide sandy beach, a 208-meter pier, and Britain's oldest water-balanced cliff lift. End the day at Seaview Restaurant, where floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the North Sea as you eat pan-fried halibut.
Amble, Northumberland, has transformed its waterfront into a hub of food stalls and local makers. The Northumberland Seafood Centre sells hot kipper sandwiches and Lindisfarne oysters. In summer, boat trips head to Coquet Island, home to 40,000 puffins.
Southport, Merseyside, boasts an unexpected link to Paris: Napoleon Bonaparte is said to have modeled the Champs-Élysées on its elegant Lord Street. The Atkinson museum houses a rare Ba-Bird from ancient Egypt, and the beach stretches two miles at low tide.
Whitby, North Yorkshire, is gothic charm incarnate. Climb the 199 steps to the abbey that inspired Dracula, then explore the old town's Victorian terraces and antique shops. The Magpie Cafe serves legendary haddock and chips.
Finally, Filey politely refused to modernize. Its honeyed sands, Edwardian promenades, and family-owned shops evoke a slower pace. Walk to Filey Brigg, or visit RSPB Bempton Cliffs for gannets and puffins. At dusk, the rose-scented Crescent Gardens are pure peace.
This story originally appeared in Condé Nast Traveller UK.