Study Warns Climate Change Threatens World's Most Famous Surf Breaks

Some of the world's most celebrated surf breaks are under threat from rising seas, hardened coastlines and shifting sands, according to an analysis of dozens of famous waves in World Surfing Reserves.

The study found more than three-quarters of the waves examined were at high risk. Among those rated most vulnerable were the "bombing barrels" of Croyde Beach in North Devon, UK, the point breaks at Noosa in Australia and Oriente Salvaje in El Salvador, and California's Santa Cruz reefs such as Sewer Peak and Wind and Sea.

The research, published in the journal Climatic Change, drew on almost 200 local experts who analyzed 57 surf breaks across eight countries. Dan Reineman, an associate professor at California State University Channel Islands and a coauthor, said surf breaks are "incredibly unique oceanographic phenomena" that are "really sensitive" to change.

Global heating is pushing up sea level and altering rainfall patterns that affect sediment movement, upsetting the delicate balance that creates a wave. Development such as sea walls, jetties and groynes makes beaches and waves less resilient, while more natural coastlines can adapt better.

The stakes go beyond surfing, the researchers said, because many communities depend on the multibillion-dollar surf economy. Trent Hodges of Save the Waves Coalition, a coauthor, said a changing wave often signals a changing beach: "It's a canary in the coal mine." The authors suggested local surfers' expert knowledge could be tapped to help protect the waves.