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Seoul, Busan, and Jeju: A Honeymoon of Barbecue, Soju, and Morning Runs

Conde Nast TravelerSaturday, February 14, 2026
Seoul, Busan, and Jeju: A Honeymoon of Barbecue, Soju, and Morning Runs

After six years in New York, my husband Henry and I finally made it to South Korea. We married in Peru and chose Seoul, Busan, and Jeju Island for our honeymoon, swapping typical romance for a more vibrant pace. Instead of quiet dinners, we shared tabletop barbecue and clinked soju glasses with new friends. Between historic palaces and sleek shopping districts in Seoul, we found a perfect balance.

We based ourselves in Hongdae, a neighborhood pulsing with energy. An afternoon in nearby Mangwon involved market snacks and beers at Mediums, a shop where vinyl records set the mood. Evenings were for exploring the hidden bars and smoky grill houses of Euljiro. We skipped reservations, letting the best markets guide us. In Busan, the bustling corridor between Jagalchi and Bupyeong Kkangtong Market was a highlight, where vendors cooked our chosen seafood on the spot.

On Jeju Island, we woke in an Airbnb with a direct view of the Seongsan Ilchulbong peak. A short drive brought us to watch the haenyeo divers begin their work before we hiked to the crater's summit. Each morning started with a run—through Jeju's foggy canola fields, past lines of drying squid, or along the edges of Busan's fish markets. These moments of calm beautifully offset the delightful chaos of the days. It wasn't a conventional honeymoon, but it was utterly us.

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