From Tourist to Temporary Resident: My Month of Island Life in Greece

I’ve been visiting Greece every year for a decade, but this time I wanted something different. Instead of just passing through, I booked a month-long stay, starting in Athens. After ten days of cafés and tavernas in the city, I followed the locals’ lead and headed to the islands for Easter. Paros was the choice, and a traditional Cycladic home called Nerea Idyllic Sunset became my base.

The ferry from Athens usually takes four hours, but a rough sea stretched the trip. That made landing on Paros feel even sweeter. Our host, Cristi, grew up in the house her father built. Perched on two levels, it had whitewashed walls, dark wood beams, and sand-colored concrete floors. My favorite spot was the top terrace off the primary bedroom, with a direct view of the Aegean. I dropped my bags and just stood there, soaking it in.

For the next four days, I embraced slow living. Morning coffee on the terrace, books in the sun, and sunset aperitifs with local wine, olives, and feta. I did venture out: to the sleepy village of Lefkes, where we found an overpriced but welcome freddo cappuccino; to Marpissa; and to Taverna Mouragio for grilled octopus and Greek salad. But mostly I stayed home, cooking, writing at the mezzanine desk, and pretending this was my everyday life. The only trips beyond the terrace were to the bakery for bread and baklava, and to Masete for the island’s best gyros.

Reluctance to leave is the truest sign of a good holiday. After one last breakfast in the sun, I took the ten-minute drive to Paros Airport, already planning the next escape.