Everest’s ‘Mountain Queen’ and ‘Everest Man’ Set New Climbing Milestones

Two of Nepal’s most celebrated high-altitude guides have once again made history on the world’s tallest peak. Kami Rita Sherpa, known as the “Everest Man,” reached the summit for the 32nd time on Sunday, breaking his own record set just last year. Lhakpa Sherpa, the “Mountain Queen,” also climbed to the top for the 11th time, extending her own women’s record.

“This is another milestone in Nepal’s mountaineering history,” said Himal Gautam, a spokesperson for the country’s Tourism Department, in a statement to AFP.

Kami Rita, 56, first summited Everest in 1994 while guiding a commercial team. Since then, he has returned nearly every year, sometimes climbing the mountain twice in a single season. Lhakpa, 52, first reached the top in 2000, becoming the first Nepali woman to successfully summit and descend.

Gautam said the pair’s achievements inspire other climbers and that “healthy competition on Everest will help make climbing safer, more dignified and better managed.”

Kami Rita, who hails from the same village as Tenzing Norgay, said after his 2024 ascent that he was “just working” and not chasing records. But the numbers keep climbing. Nepal issued a record 492 Everest permits this season, and more than 8,000 people have summited since Norgay and Hillary’s first ascent in 1953.

Among non-Sherpa climbers, British guide Kenton Cool holds the record with 19 summits, followed by Americans Dave Hahn and Garrett Madison with 15 each. Cool and Madison are currently on the mountain hoping to improve their tallies.

With hundreds of climbers and their guides expected to head for the summit in the coming days, concerns about overcrowding are resurfacing, especially if bad weather shortens the climbing window.