Colombia’s Sierra Nevada: A Paradise Under Pressure from Armed Groups

The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta National Park, with its snow-capped peaks cascading into the turquoise Caribbean, is one of Colombia’s most stunning tourist destinations. But behind the postcard-perfect scenery, a darker story unfolds.

Armed groups are extorting local businesses and terrorizing Indigenous communities in the region. The 2016 peace deal with FARC ended decades of war and opened the door to a tourism boom—now, thousands of visitors daily trek through pristine jungle to white-sand beaches or climb to the ancient Lost City, older than Machu Picchu. Few notice the men in camouflage watching from the treeline.

These are members of the Self-Defence Forces of the Sierra Nevada (ACSN), a former paramilitary group that controls cocaine trafficking routes and illegal gold mining. Extortion has become a lucrative sideline. The so-called “Conquistadores” demand a cut from hotels, tour bus companies, and Indigenous communities selling handwoven crafts.

“We are afraid and anxious about the future,” said Atanasio Moscote, governor of the Kogui people, who consider the Sierra Nevada “the heart of the world.” In February, Tayrona National Park closed for two weeks after threats against rangers, allegedly from the ACSN. Authorities say the group pressured Indigenous Wayuu residents to resist crackdowns on illegal logging.

Last year, the two parks drew over 873,000 visitors—a far cry from the 1980s and 90s, when the area was a war zone. Ten years after FARC disarmed, the ACSN still holds sway. Colombia’s largest cartel, the Gulf Clan, has recently tried to muscle in, sparking clashes. Caught in the middle are Indigenous communities who don’t speak Spanish and live off their crops.

President Gustavo Petro’s “Paz Total” campaign aimed to disarm all armed groups, but the ACSN still dominates. With extortion complaints topping 46,000 since 2022, the issue now shapes the race to succeed Petro. “Any news affecting visitor safety makes tourists think twice,” warned Omar Garcia, head of Santa Marta’s hotel association.