A Local Artist’s Guide to the Real Goa

Siddharth Kerkar remembers when Calangute was just a quiet road he used to cycle on, with only the Taj hotel and a handful of small shops. Today, the northern part of Goa still keeps that low-key charm, but it’s also alive with mixology bars, vinyl listening rooms, and kitchens serving everything from Burmese to experimental cocktails. Kerkar—an internationally recognized artist and the son of famed painter Subodh Kerkar—runs several spots in the village of Assagao, including the Burmese restaurant Sopó, the cocktail space Room One, and the art-focused bar Drop Dead Sexy. Here’s his take on where to find the best art, craft, and sushi in Goa.

For early mornings, North Goa’s beaches—Calangute, Baga, and Candolim—are empty until about 7 a.m. Kerkar suggests visiting Parra’s coconut tree road at daybreak, when the fields are misty and the crowds haven’t arrived. Then take the cliff walk at Fort Aguada, a trail that winds past trees and stone outcrops before opening onto a headland where the Mandovi River meets the Arabian Sea.

Art lovers should head to Old Goa’s Museum of Christian Art, housed in a 17th-century convent. Kerkar points out that Hindu craftsmen built the churches, leaving lotus motifs on the pillars. For contemporary work, the Museum of Goa—founded by his father—offers a deep look at the state’s history and a great souvenir shop. For shoppable art, he recommends marine-inspired tableware and home decor by Thomas the Potter, sold at Paper Boat Collective in Sangolda.

When it comes to food, Kerkar’s picks range from piquant seafood at Spice Goa to Sichuan fried chicken at Grumps. He’s obsessed with Izumi Assagao, ordering their yuzu prawn tempura maki and hamachi truffle ponzu hundreds of times a year. For a simpler night, Pablo’s in Assagao serves local beers and feni, the cashew or coconut spirit. “It’s uncomplicated and very Goan,” he says.